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By Janie HarThe Associated Press

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Sun., Sept. 23, 2018

SAN FRANCISCO—The arch accoutrement is amidst the best identifiable elements of Muslim women’s dress and best acceptable to be portrayed as arid and akin to the Western eye.

But a new exhibition in San Francisco shows that the accoutrement acclimated by some Muslim women can be a ablaze chicken arch blanket or a apart array of rose; a atramentous cottony and applique bandage by Dolce & Gabbana; or a awning absorbed to an extra-long girls’ dress.

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Contemporary Muslim Fashions opened Saturday at the de Adolescent Building with about 80 apparel by about 60 designers from about the world, including the Middle East and Southeast Asia. The clothes are vibrant, affected and playful, alignment from high-end couture to d streetwear.

The bodies abaft the installation, which is the aboriginal above building exhibition of its kind, achievement to atom a added compassionate of the women who are allotment of the second-largest adoration in the world.

“At a time back Muslim women are actuality added targeted for application their appearance choices to advance their ability and identity, we achievement that this exhibition will acquiesce a absolute analysis and assay of a association that’s generally talked about, but rarely accustomed the adventitious to allege and present itself,” said Gisue Hariri, one of two Iranian-born sisters whose architectonics close advised the galleries.

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The affectation comes amidst conflicts in Western countries over Muslim clothing.

Denmark afresh banned face veils in public, adage the move was analytical to ensure accessible assurance and advocate Danish values. Austria, Belgium and France accept agnate laws. In the U.S., President Donald Trump issued a arguable ban on biking from several majority-Muslim countries.

But the abstraction for the exhibition predated Trump’s election, said Jill D’Alessandro, babysitter in allegation of apparel and t arts for the Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco, which includes the de Adolescent Museum.

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She said the berry was buried in 2016, back France was in an uproar over a ban on “burkini” swimsuits beat by some Muslim beachgoers. At the aforementioned time, D’Alessandro was seeing examples of chichi “modest fashion” accepted by adolescent Muslim women who capital to accurate their religious piety.

“It was the dichotomy we were absorbed in,” she said. “That was the kernel. It was like, ‘Look at this. Isn’t this so funny? They’re so fashionable and yet bodies appetite to altercate what they can abrasion at the beach.’”

Modest appearance has become a $44-billion industry, with added Western appearance houses accouterment to Muslim consumers.

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Last year, Nike alien a headscarf fabricated of high-tech fabrics. A Max Mara appearance appearance in 2017 featured a archetypal in a hijab, her anatomy captivated in one of the company’s continued tailored coats — a accepted attending amidst wealthier Muslim shoppers.

The Institute for Social Policy and Understanding, an alignment that studies American Muslims, appear a poll that showed best women said they abrasion a hijab for religious reasons. Only 1 per cent said they were appropriate to do so by family.

Dalia Mogahed, the institute’s analysis director, is captivated that de Adolescent has taken on the topic. Mogahed, who is not affiliated with the show, balks at governments that force Muslim women to awning themselves in a assertive way and those that won’t let women awning up as they wish.

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“The acumen that bodies accept of Muslims in America or Muslims globally is generally shaped by amazing account that avoid and abbreviate what the majority is all about,” she said.

Designers featured barrage from Saudi Arabia, Turkey, Malaysia, Singapore, Iran and added countries.

One of D’Alessandro’s admired finds is a 2012 “Hoody Dress” by British artist Sarah Elenany. She created long-sleeve, knee-length dresses for the Scout Association in the United Kingdom so Muslim girls could rappel and ascend comfortably. The dresses were beat over trousers or leggings.

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Also amidst the pieces is a acceptable Pakistani bells ensemble of red cottony and chiffon, with brownish adornment and bottle beads. It is on accommodation from Saba Ali, a San Francisco-area stylist who served as adviser to the exhibition and styled the arch coverings.

She is captivated to be allotment of the show, which ends in January and again moves to Frankfurt’s Building Angewandte Kunst.

“I feel it’s so important in this day and age and the altitude we alive in. A lot of bodies don’t apperceive Muslims,” Ali said. “Art is a agency to a chat for bodies to get to apperceive a ability or bodies better.”

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