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Dolce & Gabbana’s Bounce 2019 presentation kicked off on Sunday afternoon with a Sicilian burial procession, abbey accretion pealing as veiled, black-clad women captivated candles and fabricated their way boring up the aerodrome — though, this actuality Dolce & Gabbana, that translated to a deluge of curve-hugging glassy dresses, conceivably the iest widows’ weeds Italy has anytime seen.

Women’s rights abide to boss the spotlight in the U.S., and this atramentous moment couldn’t advice but adjure thoughts of marches and blush bobcat hats, of hashtags like #MeToo and #WhyIDidntReport. That may not accept been the absorbed of Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, authoritative a account about aching freedoms now in jeopardy, admitting it would accept been an apt adverse to the joy that was abounding throughout the blow of this show.

As the advance of “widows” fabricated their exit, the blind of the architecture duo’s Metropol theatre was pulled aback to acknowledge a illustration of yet added women, and instead of D&G, a ample gold “DNA” bedeviled the accomplishments abaft them. Monica Bellucci stood at the center, with Eva Herzigova, Carla Bruni and Helena Christensen amidst those who amidst her, continuing the trend of ‘90s supermodels on the runways that accept captivated the audiences at Milan Appearance Week.

The assorted casting additionally continued to families: Amidst the mothers and sons, mothers and daughters and grandmothers and granddaughters that absolved the show, there was Isabella Rossellini, captivation easily with her children, Elettra Weidemann and Roberto Rossellini, while Elettra captivated her 9-month-old son, Ronin, with her partner, amateur Caleb Lane, on her added side. (So abounding brilliant ability on the aerodrome ability accept overshadowed the advanced row, which included Stevie Wonder, Liam Payne and Cardi B, who exuded Dolce & Gabbana spirit in a Fall 2018 beastly book that she commutual with Giuseppe Zanotti’s thigh-high “Reese” bobcat boots.)

This wasn’t an ceremony appearance — that aftermost happened to admire 30 years of the characterization during a four-day caricature in Naples in 2016 — admitting it acquainted like one in ambit and volume. Instead, this was a anniversary of handcraft, 151 looks that accustomed all the Dolce & Gabbana codes, from the religious iconography rendered in a bright book beat by Lady Kitty Spencer to the abounding mix of applique and adornment to actualize a cape for Maye Musk. This actuality bounce at Dolce & Gabbana, florals blossomed everywhere, in annoyed dresses both abbreviate and long, menswear-inspired apparel and circumscribed acme commutual with abbreviate pants. Both Emily Ratajkowski and Ashley Graham, meanwhile, wore addition signature, arduous ruched dresses with atramentous lingerie underpinnings — Ratajkowski in anemic dejected and Graham in a one-shoulder leopard-print appearance — and it was Graham who garnered the applause.

The admirers absolutely seemed to amusement this accident not as a appearance appearance but as a moment of theater, and that seemed fitting. The music was a alternative of greatest hits by Luciano Pavarotti, and the backward tenor would accept acquainted appropriate at home amidst this operatic production, in which aggregate — from the casting to the clothes and the abounding accessories — acquainted like aloof a bit more. Amidst the abundance of the Dolce & Gabbana DNA, the joy of Italian activity was additionally on abounding display, as admitting this assorted casting of women — adolescent and old, of all shapes and apery assorted cultures — ability aberrate through a balustrade with their families afterwards the sun has set.

Ultimately, the advance of women at the show’s alpha acceptable wasn’t an apparent account of changeable empowerment; the Sicilian widow, afterwards all, is yet addition aspect of the Dolce and Gabbana DNA. And these men are no strangers to controversy, shrugging in the face of accessible acerbity over amusing media posts that accept taken aim at gay couples adulatory to become parents or bulging their chins at followers who abuse their accommodation to dress Melania Trump. Their bulletin on Sunday’s runway, however, is one that resonates added than ever: We accept in women. 

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