The approaching at Junya Watanabe
At his superb appearance aboriginal Saturday morning at Paris Appearance Week, Junya Watanabe gave us a lot to bite on — lampshade-looking headgear, graffiti anatomy architectonics and the approaching of appearance as we apperceive it.
Watanabe explored the abstraction of apparent texture, folding and molding, acid and abstraction t like cardboard origami. The consistent honeycombs, pleats, spikes and nets became skirts, dresses, shawls, alike trim on the backs of biker jackets.
It was alluring to anticipate about the address involved, and what it all agency to the bigger picture. This season, the flattening of appearance has been a affair of discussion, as in designers creating clothes to comedy able-bodied on screens, area shoppers are added examination and affairs fashion.
In one sense, Watanabe’s accumulating ran adverse to this theory, in that it was all about angles, architectonics and demography up space.
Leather, applique at Louis Vuitton
The Louis Vuitton appearance was captivated at the Fondation Louis Vuitton, the ablaze captain of a architecture complete by artist Frank Gehry to abode LVMH administrator Bernard Arnault’s art collection, in the chichi Paris suburb Neuilly Sur Seine
But rather than accepting the appearance inside, three geodesic domes were erected outside. When guests absolved up the staircases into the bottle pods, it was like boarding a spaceship.
Artistic administrator Nicolas Ghesquiere, a cocky declared sci-fi enthusiast, loves a acceptable accurate set, but the big focus actuality was on absolute clothes.
Ghesquiere took acceptable affluence fabrics, including lace, glassy and brocade, and gave them a modern, accidental attending with additional silhouettes, technical-looking embroideries and applications.
Slip dresses and T-shirts had corset detailing, which we’ve apparent abroad on the runways this season, but done in a clear way, with apparent zippers bottomward the sides. And ribbed knits were accustomed the sci-fi analysis with afire hems, slicing cutouts and brownish effects. Miniskirts came in alloyed leather-and-lace, and shorts and mini-dresses in an arresting afraid brocade. There were additionally classically tailored pantsuits beat with alternation belts, which are clearly back, additionally actualization on the aerodrome at Chanel.
While the accumulating distilled abounding of Ghesquiere’s abiding account and capacity into article that was attainable to accept and wear. The aftereffect was Vuitton’s best attainable accessible to abrasion airing ever.
Creating a attending at Miu Miu
At Miu Miu, Miuccia Prada’s added a label, the walls were covered in yellow-and-pink wallpaper, ambience the date for a vintagey-cool, color-soaked accumulating that brought to apperception the attending of a John Waters film.
On the runway, there were a ton of fun coats in formed leather, allegory checks, plaids and snakeskin. Covering and python knife bulge skirts (pleated skirts, additionally a huge trend for fall) were commutual with sweet, annoyed bib blouses and perforated sweaters. Accessories included ablaze patent, catch advanced shoes and boots, colossal sunglasses and d, vintage-looking daisy-and-crystal jewelry.
Chanel’s appetizing card of French chic
Karl Lagerfeld adapted the Grand Palais into Brasserie Gabrielle for the Chanel appearance at Paris Appearance Week — with bars, banquettes and waiters confined coffee and croissants — maybe it wasn’t aloof a affair on which to adhere a collection. It was a advancement that the alone absolute affluence today is time. So why not do as the French do — cull up a chair, put bottomward the iPhone and absolutely adore a meal with friends.
That’s what the models did: After aimless the runway, they took seats at the bar, on banquettes and in alehouse chairs, ordered coffee from waiters and enjoyed the appearance themselves.
The clothes were black-and-white, adult and feminine, common madame and assuming mademoiselle. Some of the abatement season’s trends angry up, namely the adviser as the new anorak contour — in checky leather, or with intricate folds and tucks, topping A-line skirts. The new Chanel adult suit.
There were a lot of skirts over pants, which Lagerfeld has approved before, but never so successfully. A knitted, checkered askance blanket brim over bittersweet covering sweatpants, beneath a houndstooth bodice sweater, was a decidedly abundant attending and hinted at fashion’s attraction with dressed-up abundance wear, accepted as the athleisure trend, it was as chichi as a Saturday morning gets.
The accumulating was a abounding card of French chic, from the airless but always affected women of a assertive age, to the cardigan-clad bohemians, anybody came to the table. Chef de Chanel Lagerfeld did it again.
Celine dares to be altered
It’s adapted that Phoebe Philo showed her abatement accumulating for Celine on International Women’s Day, because her ability is in designing clothes that feel like they are fabricated for women by women.
While there may accept been a abode for dishabille and anatomy binding on the runways at one time, it’s the 21st century, people. We’ve been there, done that. How about assuming us clothes with address and integrity, and while you’re at it, a new abstraction or two?
That’s what Philo did at Celine; she stepped out on that axle and dared to be different.
Philo let go creatively, unleashing a added imperfect, absolute adorableness — starting with the accepted palette of orange, yellow, red, cream, ivory and black. All the accouterment seemed to be advancing baffled or to be hardly askance — bedlam coats affairs afar at the accept seams, backpack l’oeil ribbed sweaters with oned bra fastenings in back, alike chichi absurd covering skirts or exaggerated, thick-waistband trousers peeking out from beneath acceptable tunics.
Leather trenches came with drawstring waists, accouterment with a scattering of covering patches, and blouses with beastly prints (literally, sketched images of foxes and badgers). And those critters were cute!
And that’s acumen abundant to go to a store, because Celine isn’t awash online. You accept to go aloof to analysis this being out. Forget all the activity about celebrity advanced rows, busy sets and alive music; this was a absolute appearance happening.
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