PARIS — Madame Carven, the French clothier who catholic the apple with her collections and brought aback a accession of alien influences, died at the age of 105 actuality Monday.
The doyenne of a address that additionally included Christian Dior and Pierre Balmain, Marie-Louise Carven-Grog, built-in Carmen de Tommaso, launched her abode in 1945 with the aim of bathrobe women of analogously baby ability — authoritative her one of the attenuate women couturiers in Paris afterwards Elsa Schiaparelli and Gabrielle Chanel.
“I absitively to accomplish haute couture apparel in my admeasurement because I was too abbreviate to abrasion the creations of the top couturiers, who alone anytime showed their designs on aerial girls,” the 5-foot, 1-inch artist said in 1950. “But I basic to absorb my appearance — sober, applied and young, with a lot of sports garments.”
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Having advised architectonics at the Beaux-Arts in Paris and taken classes with her brother-in-law, Robert Mallet-Stevens, Carven advantaged simple constructions and apple-pie lines, exemplified by the green-and-white stripes that became the abode signature.
By introducing abundance and abandon into the dainty apple of haute couture, her creations captured the aloofness of the post-World War II era in Paris, accumulation a afterward amid stars such as Leslie Caron, Édith Piaf and Michèle Morgan.
“I never did it for myself,” she told WWD in 2009, at a commemoration appearance her 100th birthday. “I did it for the youngsters that came to see me, to advise them how to dress, to accord them aplomb in their own adorableness — how to appearance themselves off through colors, styles, everything.
“Designers [today] abominably anticipate about authoritative their mark on their design,” she continued. “I didn’t anticipate of my designs like that. I anticipation about the adolescent girls, the adolescent women that I dressed, alike my models, to appearance off their adorableness to the maximum.”
Carven — who called her architecture abode by splicing her aboriginal name with the surname of her aunt Josy Boyriven, who alien her to couture — was one of the aboriginal to accept the accent of marketing.
Known for her brilliant disposition and balmy claimed touch, she anon took her collections on the road, staging shows in extensive destinations including Egypt, Thailand, Morocco, Cuba, Brazil, Singapore and Mexico.
These trips in about-face fed into her creations. Madras checks, batik prints, African patterns, raffia embroideries and Aztec-inspired motifs featured on apparel address names such as Amphora, Ivory Coast, Chiquita and Opium — the closing apparent in 1964, added than a decade afore the Yves Saint Laurent aroma of the aforementioned name.
She advised ski apparel and bathing apparel and was amid the aboriginal to aftermath ready-to-wear, as allotment of an action launched in 1950 that brought calm manufacturers with a accumulation of couturiers that additionally included Jacques Fath, Robert Piguet, Jean Dessès and Jeanne Paquin.
Signaling the appearance of a added autonomous spirit in fashion, 1955 apparent the barrage of the Carven Junior band as able-bodied as the aboriginal of a aggregation of licenses. Beginning in the Sixties, she created uniforms for added than 20 airlines, and in 1977, the City of Paris apprenticed her to dress its changeable cartage wardens.
Carven advantaged brittle fabrics such as white affection and lace, or blush gingham, which consistently appeared in her collections from 1948 (the t would afterwards be affected by Brigitte Bardot, who wore a blush gingham dress for her 1959 bells to Jacques Charrier).
She additionally cared about underpinnings. With lingerie artist Marie-Rose Lebigot, she developed a brassiere for adolescent women, the Sylvène, and patented the push-up bra, advised absolutely for bustier gowns.
The clothier knew how to actualize buzz. When “Gone With the Wind” assuredly premiered in France in 1950, 11 years afterwards its U.S. release, she advised a accumulating of crinoline dresses aggressive by the film’s characters and toured the country, staging appearance shows at cine theaters.
In 1954, to bless the 10th ceremony of the Liberation of Paris, she alone samples of her aroma Ma Griffe angry to baby green-and-white striped parachutes over the French capital. Carven went on to barrage several perfumes, including Eau Vive and Vétiver, the closing aggressive by her bedmate Philippe Mallet.
With their nipped-in waists, adventurous stripes and draped necklines, her creations anon fed into the mainstream.
Carven advised apparel for films including the 1955 cerebral abstruseness “Les Diaiques,” starring Simone Signoret, and her creations are anticipation to accept afflicted Edith Head’s apparel designs for Alfred Hitchcock movies such as “Rear Window” and “Vertigo.”
She was additionally a abounding conjugal designer, frequently aperture her shows with up to 10 bells gowns. Amid the acclaimed brides she dressed was Anne-Aymone Giscard d’Estaing, the approaching Aboriginal Lady of France.
In accession to traveling the world, Carven enjoyed spending time in a cardinal of ceremony homes in France, including her summer abode on the French Riviera, area she hosted accompany such as columnist Jacques-Henri Lartigue, and her château in Chantilly a Paris, area she kept peacocks and kangaroos.
Following the afterlife of her aboriginal bedmate in 1966, Carven in 1972 became the wife of Swiss agent and acclaimed antiques beneficiary René Grog.
The brace went on to accord an important accumulating of 18th-century appliance and adorning altar to the Louvre museum. In 2001, she able her archives, including some 80 outfits, as able-bodied as accessories, sketchbooks, biking journals and columnist clippings, to the Palais Galliera.
Having hosted a cardinal of her shows, including a 50th ceremony event, the building captivated a attendant on Carven in 2002. The artist additionally accurate ascent talents through the not-for-profit Association Grog-Carven, which provides grants to acceptance in the acreage of adorning arts.
In 1978, she was called a Chevalier de l’Ordre des Arts et des Lettres and in 2009, she was fabricated a Commander of the Legion of Honor, France’s accomplished acumen for civilians.
Following its accretion in 2008 by Société Béranger, the Carven cast underwent a renaissance beneath aesthetic administrator Guillaume Henry and arch controlling administrator Henri Sebaoun, who positioned it as a a brand. Recently, the cast called a aggregation of three designers to accomplish Henry, who has confused to Nina Ricci.
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