They at times assume to be on the border of extinction, and I was about accessible to address their obituary (see The Death Of The Dress Watch: Is It Time To Address Its Obituary?): gold dress watches. And aback I sometimes beam today’s society, the archetypal gentlemen as well!
But there is a blink (no pun intended) of achievement as some of the world’s best admired watch brands still accept a mechanical, gold-encased, time-only alarm or two hidden about in their collections.
For those who would rather not absorb the time attractive for them, actuality I present you four gold dress watches for the application of the acute modern-day, yet classically inclined, gentleman.
While Jaeger-LeCoultre absolutely has absolutely a few options aback it comes to time-only, gold-encased dress watches, I alone accede the Master Ultra Thin Baby Additional to be at the arch of the pack.
The acumen for this is that the watch is absolutely so complete it gets all the capacity aloof right. Its blush gold case is 38.5 mm in diameter: not 38 mm. Not 39 mm. But 38.5 mm. And that is ample abundant to be contemporary, yet baby abundant not to attending presumptuous. And at alone 7.58 mm in acme it is advised ultra-thin: cutting it feels about like cutting annihilation except the atomic beam of gold beneath the cuff.
This admeasurement additionally helps to appearance off that admirable eggshell blush of the dial, which goes so able-bodied with the blush gold case. The punch is authentic with dauphine hands, humble triangular hour markers, and an complete minimum of text. That makes this watch such a able conception because there is accurate synergy amid all the details.
It is alone aback you about-face the Master Ultra Thin Baby Additional over that it loses some of its catch because Jaeger-LeCoultre acquainted the charge to appearance off why it is one of the best admired names in the industry by installing a azure clear case aback to adore the accomplish movement.
Rightfully so because a accurate admirer can be bashful but additionally apperceive how to advance his talents. So why not apprehend the aforementioned from his watch?
For added information, amuse appointment www.jaeger-lecoultre.com.
For the added Teutonically-inclined gentlemen, A. Lange & Söhne offers the admirable 1815.
This watch additionally appearance accessory abnormal but is added archetypal in its architecture access than the Jaeger-LeCoultre, including atramentous Arabic numerals, blued hands, and a railroad clue to announce the minutes.
This is a watch that brings it all aback to the essence, article that A. Lange & Söhne is decidedly acceptable at. Yes, it is the brand’s abiding calendars and assorted rattrapante chronographs that usually accomplish the headlines, but beneath all that is a steady, abiding accumulating of able-bodied made, archetypal dress watches.
This watch is 1.22 mm college than the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin, and it is not alike an automatic! But afore you judge, booty a moment to adore what the Germans accept done with the added space: one attending at the three-quarter bowl fabricated of basic German argent adorned with ablaze red bittersweet address jewels set aural gold chatons anchored to the bowl by blued screws should accomplish you added than accommodating to absolve the added height. And if that doesn’t work, the hand-engraved antithesis erect ability do the trick!
For added information, amuse appointment www.alange-soehne.com.
While I am alone no fan of dress watches with a date action I cannot abjure their activated use – alike in today’s society.
If you opt for a dress watch with a date window, the Patek Philippe Calatrava Reference 5227J is one you best absolutely charge to consider. Apart from the date action and the actuality that it is a Patek Philippe, there are two affidavit to acquirement it: the aboriginal is the way the lugs “merge” with the case; there is annihilation like it, abnormally not in the apple of the dress watch area best lugs are absorbed to the case, but not absolutely allotment of it.
The additional acumen is the lacquered dial. Like the covering of acrylic on your (of course) vintage, Rolls-Royce, Patek Philippe’s punch accomplish has activated 12 (!) layers of bark to accord it the best beautiful, abysmal appearance you can imagine.
One of the appearance that I adore best about Reference 5227 is the invisibly hinged hunter case back, which hides the movement until you would like to see it. Patek Philippe autonomous for a added chaste accomplishment on the movement itself: beneath the full-sized 21-karat gold rotor that apprehension Caliber 324 SC, there are no hand-engraved antithesis cocks or blued screws, but you do acquisition a Gyromax antithesis caster and a Spiromax antithesis bounce for optimum timekeeping.
A accurate admirer will acknowledge this faculty of understatement, though, as the movement in this Patek Philippe is absolutely alike thinner than that powering the Jaeger-LeCoultre, yet the cast – accurate to its appearance – did not feel the charge to amplify that actuality in the name of the watch or anywhere else.
For added information, amuse appointment www.patek.com.
Can you brainstorm that the Villeret band was absolutely created aback aback Jean-Claude Biver was co-owner of Blancpain? The man acutely knew what was appropriate for the cast because the Villeret band has become a archetypal – and additionally the actual aboriginal gold dress watch I anytime purchased myself.
Blancpain additionally showed a adroitness for befitting the Villeret accumulating beginning and exciting, and that included this adaptation with astern seconds. While it may accession an countenance with some, alike gentlemen like to accept fun and will best absolutely acknowledge this baby aberration on an contrarily altogether ample gold dress watch.
Among the blow of this characteristic – if not to say aristocratic – accumulation of watches, the Blancpain is the alone one that favors a formed guilloche punch in an irised tone, which goes decidedly able-bodied with the red gold case. The aftereffect is a hardly richer attending than that of the Jaeger-LeCoultre, which tends against the aforementioned blush palette.
Blancpain calls the movement of this Villeret, Caliber 7663, an “ultra thin” (“ultraplate”), and it is, but at a acme of 4.6 millimeters, it is absolutely on par with the A. Lange & Söhne 1815 as actuality the thickest in this rarified group.
However, this Blancpain does affection a full-sized ambagious rotor, and the astern abnormal affectation is additionally a aggravation that takes up some space. Blancpain congenital two base barrels central the movement to accommodate it with a acceptable 65-hour ability reserve, so the acute admirer can calmly abrasion altered watch over the weekend . . . maybe Fiona Krüger’s Chaos for article absolutely different?
For added information, amuse appointment www.blancpain.com.
Quick Facts Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Baby SecondCase: 38.5 x 7.58 mm, blush goldMovement: automated accomplish Caliber 896/1, 28.800 vph, 3.98 mm in height, 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequencyFunctions: hours, minutes, baby secondsYear of introduction: 2014Price: €13,700
Quick Facts A. Lange & Söhne 1815Case: 38.5 x 8.8 mm, blush goldMovement: manually anguish accomplish Caliber L051.1, 3 Hz/21.600 vph frequency, 4.6 mm high, 55-hour ability reserveFunctions: hours, minutes, hacking baby secondsYear of introduction: 2014Price: $22,800
Quick Facts Patek Philippe Calatrava Reference 5227JCase: 39 x 9.24 mm, chicken gold, officer’s case backMovement: automated accomplish Caliber 324 SC, 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency, 3.3 mm high, Gyromax balance, Spiromax antithesis spring, Patek Philippe Seal, 45-hour ability reserveFunctions: hours, minutes, seconds; dateYear of introduction: 2013Price: $35,400
Quick Facts Blancpain Villeret Ultraplate Reference 6653-3642-55BCase: 40 x 10.68 mm, red goldMovement: automated accomplish Caliber 7663, 4.6 mm high, accompanying bounce barrels, 65-hour ability reserve, free-sprung silicon antithesis with gold acclimation screws,Functions: hours, minutes, astern baby secondsYear of introduction: 2015Price: 20,500 Swiss francs (including VAT)
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