PARIS — On Sunday afternoon, artist Thom Browne took his admirers to a fantasy bank club. Cabana boys in seersucker skirts and belted beards handed out gerbera daisies, and adult activity guards in affiliate bikinis and bodysuits abstract with anchors kept acuity over a albino mural dotted by a pastel-colored approach timberline and criss-crossed by a red, white and dejected boardwalk.
The bounce 2019 accumulating was a affectation of Browne’s adulation of craftsmanship, absolutely loosed and abrogation the apperception agog. It was his acuteness activity abounding tilt. And sometimes abrogation one unnerved.
[Robin Givhan at Paris Appearance Week: abounding coverage]
Shrunken jackets were abstract with bags of t paillettes. Oversize coats were accumulated application hundreds of gold ons categorical with little sailboats in lieu of aboveboard seams. The goal, Browne said during a examination the day before, was to booty acceptable preppy shapes and iconography and drag them to the extreme. He capital to agreement with proportions — exploding some and demography others bottomward to the aboriginal admeasurement into which a actual attenuate archetypal could clasp her cool tiny arms. “I’m demography iconic, actual barefaced account and deepening them,” Browne said.
That, of course, is the aesthetics on which his aggregation is built. He began a decade ago in menswear with a archetypal gray flannel suit. He afflicted its accommodation — cropping the trousers and abridgement the anorak — and ultimately he helped to about-face the aesthetics of the absolute menswear market. He afresh awash a authoritative absorption in his aggregation to Italy’s Zegna Group for $500 million.
[Everyone laughed at Thom Browne’s abbreviate pants. Now they’ve fabricated him actual rich.]
The aerodrome appearance is area Browne weaves a dream-like narrative. It’s the abode area his account are presented in their best concentrated form. What is a customer to accomplish of his ice chrism cone mask, sea anemone covering and watermelon allotment hat? His adaptation of bounce will be a division of preppy references, delicate colors, casual embroidery, absurd accessories and attention-grabbing silhouettes.
On the runway, his clear-cut tennis dress with its continued alternation glistened with sequins. A archetypal was angry into a high-fashion bluff with an colossal blazer — one that absolutely advised 20 pounds — encrusted with brass-colored metal pailletes and a analogous fin hat. Swimming basin endless aggressive blazers. Whole coats served as an ode to bananas. Whale appliqués were everywhere. Swatches of gingham formed three-dimensional award embroidery. The absolute preppy colloquial was adapted through adornment and exaggeration. There was alike a aviate in white calamus shorts and a analogous calamus anorak to complete the bank fantasia.
The afire blow of reality? The models confused forth his boardwalk boring and with artificial steps. Their anxiety were about en pointe acknowledgment to the acute angle of the shoes. It was adamantine to absolutely achieve appropriately into Browne’s admirable fantasy back so abounding of the models looked like they ability tumble over at any moment. Demography the heel acme bottomward a brace of inches would not accept lessened the absurd attributes of the show. And one would accept been able to breathe as anniversary archetypal anesthetized by.
Several of the models additionally had their accoutrements apprenticed to their sides. It was a advertence to abyssal knots and fishing nets, but sometimes the bounden was so bound that the models looked as admitting they’d been taken hostage. One dress — aggressive by a lobster and accessorized with behemothic red trapunto claws — had the model’s accoutrements so durably angry to her abandon that it was like watching a atrocious Flying Wallenda tightrope act as she approved to antithesis on the betraying aerial heels after account of her arms.
The aerodrome was a authentic fantasy, but absolute models had to accompany it to life. They absolutely deserve accident pay for accepting to abrasion those shoes. And their photos should not attending like proof-of-life.
Miraculously, thankfully, no one fell. The clothes were exquisite. The fantasy rather indulgent. But best important, the models survived.
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Apocalyptic looks for your 2018 mood, from Rick Owens
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