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When the U.S. Olympic accidental strolls in to Rio de Janeiro’s Maracanã Amphitheater on Friday, the aggregation will already afresh be outfitted by Ralph Lauren. In 2012, the American clothier dressed our Olympic heroes in berets and ties. This time around, swimmer Michael Phelps, aerialist Simone Biles, and the blow of our athletes will be cutting dejected blazers, white denim pants, red-white-and-blue baiter shoes, and a shirt that resembles the Russian flag.

In beforehand of Friday’s aperture ceremony, Slate sports editor Josh Levin batten with Slate editor-in-chief and Olympics appearance able Julia Turner about the claiming of designing a civic costume, accessible replacements for Ralph Lauren, and the abominable absence of a Rio beret. This chat has been abridged and edited for clarity.

Josh Levin: Let’s activate with a account of purpose. What is the point of an aperture commemoration outfit?

Julia Turner: This isn’t the achievement abrasion that the athletes put on to compete. These apparel are declared to represent the civic appearance in some way. You can anticipate of them as a allegorical celebration apparel that represents American-ness with the complete angry up to 11. It’s not as admitting you appetite to adjudicator these apparel by saying, “Would I appetite to abrasion this on the street?” You charge to adjudicator them as, “Does this assume like it will accomplish the athletes feel aflame and appreciative to represent an animated and televisually optimized adaptation of American-ness in this huge and air-conditioned celebration that is the aperture ceremony?”

Ralph Lauren

So, how do these apparel accommodated that challenge?

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This is addition black about-face from Ralph Lauren, who has been designing the aperture commemoration apparel for the U.S. Olympic aggregation aback 2008. Ralph Lauren is a accustomed cast to architecture these outfits. The accomplished air-conditioned of that aggregation is retro-heritage Americana, but these apparel are animal in abounding ways. Would you like me to enumerate?

So, No. 1, the blazer: We’ve been accomplishing blazers for a few years now. At the London Games, the blazers were double-ed. Actuality we accept a single-ed blazer that does not bang me as a cogent update. In general, the angle that athletes charge represent their country in blazers seems a little bit square. It sounds like the flag-bearer’s jacket, which will be beat by Michael Phelps, will accept an electroluminescent USA console on the back. This is on trend—the affair of the Met Gala this year was about Clothes: They Can Accept Lights on Them—and it is accessible to accomplish a air-conditioned affected aftereffect with this affectionate of technology. But aglow belletrist assume a bit billboard-esque.

Ralph Lauren

Then there is the amount of the shirt they’re cutting underneath. The stripes that are in appearance at the moment are a bigger stripe, or maybe a assorted amplitude stripe. This is a absolute indecisive, middle-of-the-road, blocky stripe. Plus, it’s not the best moment to accept your attending abashed with the Russian flag. And afresh finally, this is a aboveboard and anachronous affair to accuse about, but that huge Polo logo: It seems absolutely broken-down for Ralph Lauren to attempt with the cast of the United States. The accepted access for companies is to go a little bit attenuate and chastened with their marks, so not alone is this bad aftertaste and ugly, it’s additionally arrangement of out of style. I’m abiding it turns up on TV nicely, and that’s why somebody in the Ralph Lauren business appointment anticipation it was a acceptable abstraction to accumulate it. But it is time to retire the Polo pony.

What about the white denim pants?

Those assume fine. Skinny jeans for athletes—why not? I bet that’s a allotment they would use afresh later. It seems absolute summery. I accept no objections to the jeans.

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The two items that we accept not mentioned yet that are a key allotment of this accouterments are the red-white-and-blue baiter shoes and the wrist wrap.

Ralph Lauren

I will acknowledge a assertive affection for the baiter shoes. They are absolutely comatose but in affectionate of a beautiful and affectionate way. An accouterments for the aperture commemoration is declared to be a apparel of American ancestry dress. For the aftermost decade, we assume to accept interpreted that civic apparel as aerial WASP. Allotment of the claiming of addition out who ability do a bigger job than Ralph Lauren is aggravating to amount out what added kinds of apparel ability accomplish sense. But in the adaptation area you’re accomplishing aerial WASP Americana as shtick, these baiter shoes are absolutely affectionate of amusing and a goofily loud bickering of American-ness.

OK, the wrist strap. It strikes me that it is commodity affiliated to cutting a red-white-and-blue Puka carapace necklace. Is wrist band an absolute appellation of art in fashion?

Ralph Lauren

I would alarm this a bracelet. And I ambition the accomplished accouterments were added like this armlet in a way. This armlet seems goofily specific to affectionate Americana. It’s not so abundant the Puka carapace necklace. It’s the braiding bracelet, a affectionate adaptation of that, which seems adapted for a beachy boondocks like Rio. But in agreement of the eyes of this, nobody’s activity to apprehension the armlet in the beam of this big commemoration on television. This seems to me added like a affair that it is absorbed to the accouterments so that bodies who feel affectionate this summer will go to RalphLauren.com and buy it, because it is apparently added affordable than the added things and far beneath hideous.

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[Laughs.] I did not apperceive that was how abundant it costs. That’s preposterous. OK, moderately added affordable.

There has to be a claiming actuality in outfitting athletes, who ambit in admeasurement from tiny Simone Biles to astronomic DeAndre Jordan, so should we be giving Ralph Lauren a little bit added of a canyon accustomed that challenge?

Designers are awfully bad at designing for assorted anatomy types, but there are American designers who are up for that challenge. I do anticipate advancing up with an accouterments that would attending ambrosial on altered anatomy types is allotment of the job. I additionally admiration why there’s absolute uniformity. You see these canicule an access to bathrobe bridesmaids area you aces a blush or a set of abiding things, and afresh accept them mix and match. I anticipate that the American Olympic aggregation should accede the avant-garde bridesmaid approach. Even the shirts here—I feel like the accomplished ensemble would attending bigger if there were three or four altered types of striped shirts bodies could aces from: one with a band of a capricious width, one with a micro red stripe, one with a absolutely big rugby stripe. The accord of the sad, indecisive, characterless band is the above weakness of this outfit, I believe.

Ryan Pierse/Getty Images

In 2014, you wrote an ode to the aperture commemoration sweater. That was additionally from Ralph Lauren, and it was a archetypal animal sweater abstraction with big white stars, a huge American banderole patch: It looked arrangement of like a check quilt. Do you book that up to the winter actuality added in band with commodity Ralph Lauren can do well? Or is there commodity about the winter that is added quintessentially American?

I think, in general, the winter apparel for the U.S. aggregation accept been bigger than the summer outfits, and I accept a access as to why. The akin of academism these aperture commemoration apparel should bang seems consistently in question, and Ralph Lauren consistently goes a little bit added academic than makes faculty for our Summer Olympics athletes or that they assume adequate with. Whereas an off-the-slopes attending for winter added artlessly lends itself as a bit added accidental and fun, and that sweater is acutely a abominable affair cipher would absolutely abrasion in the world, but that is what fabricated it absolute for the aperture ceremony. It looked absolute costume-ish, it took elements of things that an American ability abrasion in an elaborately busy blooming sweater and amped it up so it formed as pageantry. It was spirited, and fun, and playful. Cipher looked like they were assuming to go to the sports office, which is what the blazers denote to me.

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What companies should we be acquisitive the U.S. Olympic aggregation goes with in 2018, 2020, and beyond?

First of all, I appetite to apostle in the arch accessible agreement that Ralph Lauren’s ties to the U.S. Olympic aggregation charge be severed. They were a appropriate bet, they had a acceptable run, they produced some believable apparel and some bad ones, but this aggregation should not accept a cartel on this Americana appearance befalling for decades to come. I anticipate it is added burning we dness this affair by 2020, because I assurance Ralph Lauren to do a appropriate job with the aing Winter Olympics. But there charge be a new artist by 2020.

In agreement of attractive at American architecture aptitude appropriate now, there are a brace of options. One access is to stick with the abstraction that a archetypal WASP-tinged Americana, or preppy, is the American appearance we appetite to comedy with. If we’re activity that direction, I anticipate two accustomed names to accede would be Michael Kors, who has a bit of a blatant adult attending that bluntly is not absolutely to my taste: If you anticipate of Ralph Lauren as new money assuming to be old money, Michael Kors is like new money assuming to be new money. It’s a little gaudier. But he is a artist who has announced in his Project Runway role about the accent of all-around altered kinds of bodies and how they move, and I anticipate you could see a believable and absorbing set of looks from him.

Another artist who is additionally arrangement of a avant-garde prepster is Tory Burch. She’s primarily accepted for the hideously over-logoed ballet flats she pioneered, but she is a artist who absolute interestingly combines preppy and bohemian concepts with a absolutely absorbing eye for prints and color. She additionally launched a action band in the aftermost year or two, so her architecture accoutrement is starting to anticipate added about able-bodied bodies.

Alex Livesey/Getty Images

Another access would be to breach out of the preppy, WASP-y concept. Calvin Klein, which is accepted for minimalism, is accomplishing a lot of absorbing assignment these days. The French aggregation had a rather high-fashion attending at the London Games that ability be commodity like what you would get if Calvin Klein were to booty on bathrobe the American athletes. Addition big-name American artist is Marc Jacobs. I’m not a huge fan of his work, which is poppy, and punchy, and goofy. But his influences are absolutely wide-ranging; the silhouettes he uses are absolute boxy, and odd, and interesting; and I brainstorm you would get a absolutely air-conditioned arrangement of patterns, and shapes, and designs on the team—something that would feel a little bit added like the archetypal civic apparel than a arid blazer.

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The third access is commodity that’s a little bit sportier. There are a brace companies that would be absorbing to attending at in what’s now actuality alleged the “athleisure” space, which is a big appearance trend at the moment. One is Patagonia. If you anticipate of the aperture commemoration as an befalling to bark a bulletin from the rooftops, Patagonia is a aggregation that is American, that believes in authoritative absolutely abiding appurtenances that last, that gives a lifetime agreement on products. They accept a absolutely interesting, fun way with styles and achievement technology. I brainstorm they could appear up with a attending for the Summer Games that had a added accidental but still ablaze and agitative and alive feel of some of the Winter Games looks. And maybe afterwards a decade, they could accept an absorbing recycling affairs area they would booty elements from antecedent years’ costumes, and use them again, and anticipate about sustainability and added new American values.

Outdoor Voices

The added athleisure-style cast I would point to is this new aggregation alleged Outdoor Voices. They are a bit added of a amplitude because they mostly accomplish absolutely nice, absolutely beautiful yoga clothes and sweatpants and alliance clothes. But I would be cool absorbed in seeing what they came up with if answerable with the assignment of adorning an athleisure attending so it acquainted like an animated announcement of country-hood advised for the TV camera.

You accept absolute able animosity about one commodity of accouterment that is not present in this year’s designs, and that is the Olympic beret. Do you feel a agony of affliction and anguish that you don’t accept the beanie to abhorrence on in Rio?

The Olympic beanie is one of the greatest sartorial mysteries of our time. It is cryptic why anybody anytime anticipation it was acute to put American athletes in berets: It’s not an American hat, it’s not a adventurous hat, it’s not a hat that is decidedly adulatory or accessible to wear. The greatest affair this summer accouterments has activity for it is that somebody at Ralph Lauren had the abstemiousness not to accomplish a beret.

Laurence Griffiths/Getty Images

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I accept a absolute able feeling—a premonition—that they are aggravating to actualize McRib-esque absence and get bodies absolute aflame for the long-awaited acknowledgment of the Olympic beanie in Tokyo. I will bet you $1 there will be a Tokyo beret.

I anticipate there are two abeyant outcomes for 2020: the acknowledgment of the Ralph Lauren beret, which would accomplish me weep, or a active reinvention of the aperture commemoration accouterments by some added designer, which is what I dearly achievement comes to pass.

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