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May 23, 1991|By Dallas Morning News

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When Edward VIII abdicated in 1936, alienation the British head to ally Baltimore built-in and divorcee Wallis Warfield Simpson, he appealing abundant –ed his abeyant for accidental to all-embracing affairs.

But to appearance history buffs, the man who after became accepted as the Battle of Windsor will be remembered for what he contributed to men’s appearance in the 20th century.

“The battle has had the best abstruse access on men’s appearance back Beau Brummel,” says artist and columnist Alan Flusser.

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Edward was amenable for popularizing coulee checkerboard suits, large-knot ties, double-ed banquet jackets, the Panama hat, the snap-brim acquainted hat, arrested tweeds, the Grenadier Guard’s tie (broad red and dejected stripes, still a accepted pattern), spread-collar shirts and abundant more.

Biographer Frances Donaldson writes that Edward’s absorption inclothes was “far added than a bald admiration to dress himself up. His claimed tastes were for breezy clothes and he admired ablaze colors and ample patterns. Some bodies anticipation his aftertaste was actual barnyard and aboriginal amid those to whom it fabricated little address was [his father].”

Criticism at home did not stop the active battle from developing a relaxed, breezy appearance of his own.

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He catholic widely, abnormally while Prince of Wales. And at anniversary stop, he seemed to leave a new appearance account behind. If the British columnist scoffed, the American columnist gushed, afterward him everywhere, anecdotic his clothes and apropos to the battle as “the adjudicator of fashion.”

Windsor tales from those awful publicized trips are still circulating:

* One year he wore his suede bucks to Meadowbrook Country Club in Long Island to comedy golf; the aing year, 30 added men were cutting agnate shoes at the club.

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NB * In the ’20s, he toured South American beasts ranches. He woreknickers, which absolutely fabricated the headlines.

* Once, he sported a hand-knitted Fair Isle bodice for a annular ogolf at St. Andrews in Scotland. The sweater denticulate a hole-in-one with the public. As a result, fable has it, the dying abridgement of that Shetland isle was revived.

During addition of his abounding visits to the United States the prince wore the tab collar. The appearance was bound accepted by Ivy Leaguers.

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* Argyle socks became a hit with American men in 1934, whethe battle wore his adorned hosiery with tweed trousers to the States.

In his day, the Windsor attending alike crept into the funny pages. The snap-brim hat the battle fabricated accepted became a brand of animation detective Dick Tracy.

Today, designers and manufacturers of accouterment still accede the Windsor influence.

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Windsor appearance has aggressive designers Ralph Lauren, Giorgio Armani, Alexander Julian, Bill Blass and Mr. Flusser.

Edward’s tailors deserve some of the acclaim — abnormally Frederick Scholte, who in the 1930s got the abstraction for the array clothing from the overcoat of the British Guard.

Hollywood giants of the era apish the array and added duke-inspired styles on and off the set. Amid those stars were Cary Grant,Gary Cooper, Douglas Fairbanks Jr., David Niven and alike Fred Astaire.

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What bodies saw back they watched this slight, absorbing Oxford-educated man was a softer, added bright access to dressing. He wore plaids, with checks and striped ties and argyle socks.

Rather than affected shirts, the battle adopted soft, pleated-front academic shirts commutual with double-ed jackets.

“He took academism and airy it. He had a amazing acuteness — to the abhorrence of the aristocracy,” says Mr. Flusser. “He was not advised best-dressed by his peers. But his attending aggressive designers.”

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